Abidjan 'Mami Water'

Saturday, 31 May 2008

(This article is by a group of journalists reporting on culture, including myself, who visited a shrine during a four-day training workshop on culture at Akosombo.)

WHEN you go to the beach and see that large expanse of water, do you ever imagine there could be a well laid out city under there, populated by beings, half human, half fish, whose spiritual powers impact on human life and activity?

Well, just across the Adomi Bridge in the Eastern Region, there is the ‘Abidjan Mami Water’ shrine where a 71-year-old priest in charge claims they tap spiritual powers from Mami Water, a mermaid from a city under the sea, to break spells and heal a multiplicity of sicknesses.

Getting to Abidjan Mami water shrine, which is about four hundred metres on the right turn after the Adome Bridge from Atimpoku round- about, one should not find it difficult to locate, as almost everyone in the immediate vicinity knows where and how to get to it.

Upon arrival at the junction to the shrine, one is met with an erected wall with a roof supported by bamboo poles. On the wall is a mural of a Merman in a red sash on his torso and a blue sash enshrouding parts of his Piscean tail.

INSCRIPTION

In his right hand is a pistol and in his left, something that looks closely like a double headed sickle. To his right are two female human initiates and on his left are two dwarfs. Above his head is the inscription ‘ABIDJAN MAMI WATER’.

Once inside the village one is immediately aware of the pristine calm and immaculate cleanliness of the environment. Our entourage was met upon entering the community by a youth in his early twenties. He could speak passable Akan so we were able to communicate our intentions of meeting with the elders of this society.

A few paces further opens our view to a clearing in the middle of the village, its main feature being a very old and gnarled neem tree, which has roots defiantly snaking out of the ground forming seating areas for the inhabitants of the community.

We exchanged greetings with the few inhabitants we found seated there and they were open and welcoming, while ushering us into the main shrine compound.

TRADITIONS

We were offered seats. As we were about to sit, an elderly looking man in a batik print cloth wrapped on his waist, a white ‘Chicago Grand prix’ T-shirt on, and a white calico cloth draped on his neck, stepped out of one of the mud hut.

This turned out to be the keeper of this mystery, Efo Agbenyo. With a clean shaven head and a thin layer of greying beard, Efo looks more like your average grandpa instead of the head of an ancient secret African society. His elderly but yet youthful demeanour, hides his true years and he could easily pass for a man of fifty.

In Efo’s opinion, the traditions of the Mami Water shrine are void of evil or wrongdoing as the gods of his shrine abhor all such malevolence. When asked why the society spurred on by the doctrines of the Christian church is constantly on their case, and why movies portray them in such biased views; to this he simply said: "I do what I need to be doing on a daily basis, I speak evil of no one and I pay little attention to people who do."

Abidjan Mami Water as Efo is popularly referred to, simply snickered after hushing up his son who attempted to answer if Christians or pastors visit the shrine. To this question he simply said: "No comment!"

Leaving the compound, we step into the main shrine which is adorned with murals of rainbow coloured snakes, more mere-men and women. Surprisingly, within the corridor of the shrine gateway is a painting of Jesus Christ on the wall.

In explaining the reason for this merger of beliefs, he gave the history of the shrine which began with his late father Togbui Adawusu Dophe.
Togbui was said to have gone hunting one day as was his profession at the time, with a stroke of good luck that day, he bagged 14 Akrantie (grasscutter). Upon reaching his home, he fell into a deep coma, thus presumed dead by some. He ‘resurrected’ after seven days with instructions from Mami-water to set up a shrine.

POWERS

The picture of Jesus, Efo Agbenyo said, was commissioned by his father in response to the imagery he found in the aqueous world of Mami-Water.

Togbui Adawusu Dophe was well renowned and highly respected. One can obviously tell by the reverent way with which he is referred to or spoken of. Togbui moved the shrine to its present location in 1956, shortly after the Adomi Bridge was built.

According to Efo Agbenyo, Mami Water required a bigger water body to dwell in, so Togbui moved his whole family and shrine from Akatsi to Adome. He, however, passed away in 2003, at 150 years.

Further into the main shrine compound in an enclosure are numerous black and white photographs, among them are several prominent Ghanaians including former presidents J.J. Rawlings and Gen. E.K. Kotoka. When we inquired about the photos, he would not comment on them but he referred to one in particular who happened to be a man hoping to join the police service, but was rejected onseveral occasions was finally drafted after Mami Water helped him out.

Efo also claims to have curative and healing powers, the shrine, he also said, deals with women with issues of barrenness, spiritual cleansing and aid people who want visas to travel. People are said to travel from all over the country, neighbouring countries and even from overseas to consult Mami Water.

Speaking to some inhabitants of the community, we inquired of their opinion on the shrine about an elderly woman seated on the ground peeling some cassava. She eloquently started with "my name is Comfort Adjeku."

When we proceeded to question her in English, the next line was in Ewe and we had to recruit the services of a translator. In Comfort’s view, the shrine’s presence in the community brought them good luck and bountiful produce during harvest. She was of the view that it is still relevant and pertinent in these times.

Our translator, Sammy, a Junior High School student, living at Atimpoku was interviewed next.. In his view the shrine was no longer relevant as the founder Togbui Adawusu had passed on.

VIEWPOINT

Regardless of what anyone’s viewpoint is, the shrine definitely commands authority and respect of not only the indigenous people and visitors, but also, of traditional leaders and other shrines within the vicinity and elsewhere. One proof of such respect accorded the Abidjan Mami-Water shrine, is a certificate of honour from the Akwamu stool, presented by Otumfuo Opoku Ware II, and awarded in 1987 by Odeneho Kwafo Akoto II, Akwamuhene.